Californy Way: Alberta-Glacier-Blackfeet-Mizzou

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After leaving Cut Bank with the Rockies on the western horizon we headed north into our friendly neighboring country to the north. We spent the night in Cardston, Alberta after an incredible evening ride through the Rocky Mountain foothills on a winding, lonely country road. In the morning our plans changed a bit after listening to a local guy at the subway who knew the area well. He told us that we should just take the main highway back to Glacier National Park in the U.S. instead of going to Waterton Lakes -- the Canadian part of the Glacier-Waterton International Peace Park -- beacuse the views you get in Waterton are similar to that of Glacier and we would get to avoid going on Chief Mountain International Highway, a road notorious for its numerous steep climbs. We had just ridden 210 miles over the previous two days so we didn't have to think too long to agree with him.

So after spending less than 24 hours in Alberta we headed south back across the border and on to Glacier National Park. After nearly three weeks riding across the Great Plains of North Dakota and Eastern Montana we immediately noticed the changing landscape around us. All of sudden trees were surrounding us! The smells and shade they provided were a forgotten benefit that brought smiles to our faces. The mountains also were growing significantly and the distinct face of Chief Mountain -- a mountain sacred to the local Blackfeet people -- loomed over us.

The core of our Glacier experience was biking the Going-to-the-sun Road which bisects the park East to West and brings people right over the continental divide at Logan Pass. Logan Pass is at about 7,000 feet but the climb from the East side was not as difficult as we expected. The ride down was stunning. The road is at a steady 6% grade which is fast but not crazy. From the top you can see the entire 15 mile strectch of road that winds itself along side the mountains to the river valley below. The cars 5,000 feet below you resemble technicolor ants and the vastness of space within the body of mountains that make up central Glacier stops your mind. The ride down is daunting and exhilarating. As far as I am concerned you need to do it on a bike to get the full experience. Snow melt water falls spill onto the road in places coating you in mist, there are tunnels through rock and a hairpin turns and to your left there is paradise. Snow covered mountains and 1,000-foot-drop water falls tumbling into mist. At a distance it looks as if the water is falling in slow motion from the billion year old precipices of argillite rock.

Hiking in Glacier is a separate trip in itself. Glacier is known as having one of the highest density populations of grizzly bears in the country. When you are there it is not "haha" camping--if the mountains don't put you in your place the wildlife will. Every trailhead has signs reading: "You are now entering Grizzly territory". On a hike to Sperry Lake we were told of a grizzly sighting that day and the bear tracks on scat on the trail confirmed their presence. Hiking by yourself, quietly just doesn't feel right. I found I needed to establish my presence in the forest by "Hey-up!" and "Hey-yo!"ing through the woods to assertively alert the natives of my visit. No grizzly bears were seen by us but we saw a small black bear not 15 yards off the trail tearing into a dead log for larvae.

The trails we hiked began through dense climax forests of hemlock and cedar. Many of the trees were there well before Lewis and Clark made their way west. The foliage and diversity of plants along the way is something else. Devil's club is a large prehistoric looking shrub. Its leaves are similar in shape to maple leaves but are as large as basketballs. There are more wild flowers than I care to count. In the higher altitudes Bear Grass populates the slopes of the mountains. Bear grass is a lilly and their flowers glow white against the dark green of the forest. They smell similar to dandelions, only sweeter. The moist pacific air holds the fragrance of these flowers and makes for a truly heady experience. The trails we hiked ended in mountain lakes so clear that if the wind did not ripple the water you would not know the water was there at all. Just sunken logs and trout hovering eerily over the ground. At the start of the trails we hiked the mountains loomed in the distance but as you advanced they built up around you. Once we reached the mirror lakes they were towering around us. It is a wonderful experience. You feel the mountains. Their presence looms over you and it feels as though the mountains are silent yet epic crescendos from an inner orchestra as your field of vision becomes dominated by the peaks. Synesthesia through nature, perhaps. It is calming for the soul.

Had a good beer night with couple fellow travelers one night on Lake Mcdonald. Two guys from New York, John and Tristan, who are traveling across the country on motorcycles. They live and work in Utah. It will be cool to see them again, someday.

One night Ryan and I rented paddle boards and spent the evening on Lake Mcdonald, watching the sunset and fly fishing. First time on paddle boards. It was funny at first. We were awkwardly trying to keeping our balance and to time a decent fly-cast. It's hard, think about it. But we got pretty decent at it by the end of the night. If you come to Glacier, camp at Apgar Village for a night or two and head to Glacier Outfitters, GO for short. We talked to one of the owners, Shelby, and she is the best at what she does. Within minutes of talking to her she says, "Ok, can I plan out your weekend? This is what you need to do..." She hooked us up with paddle boards and a fly rod, told us the fishing spots and got Ryan lessons from a professional fly fisher-woman, Katy. We felt like we've known her for a year by the time we left. We were on the lake 5 hours that night and it only cost $40.00 with rods. We didn't catch any fish that day but we saw schools of something swimming underneath of our boards.

After leaving Apgar village in Glacier we made our way to Swan Lake. The weather for the day said "Smoke". I did not know that was a weather description but it certainly is. We came to find out that the smoke was/is coming from forest fires in Washington and Oregon. The skies are hazy, even now in Missoula the atmosphere is shrouded in smoke. That night at Swan lake you could stare at the sun as it set. It was an electric pink-red orb--a surreal setting as far as sunsets go.

That night of camping we met Jess--she is our age and biking from Virginia to San Francisco, by herself. She shared her spot with us as the campground was full. She was good company, hope to see her again.

The 18th was a unique day. We planned on making it to Salmon Lake National Park and camp with Jess but early on I had a flat tire from a staple. It was not a big deal--I had it patched up shortly and played catchup to the guys. Soon, I saw Ryan walking his bike alongside the road. He had a flat, too, except we could not change his as the tire was too tight to the rim and we did not have the tools to get it off. So, Roy stuck out the ol' thumb. It didn't take long until someone stopped, a woman in a big white dodge pickup. We came to find out her name was Jan--a middle-aged MD, professor and rancher who just got done tenting in the mountains by herself for 10 days. Oh yeah, she studies under the Dalai Lama too--she liked my Om tattoo. We meet the most interesting people on the road. Anyways, we talked, she mainly talked, we listened about everything from sustainable forestry, ranching and social stuff all the way to Missoula. We learned a lot. She made sure that we found the right bike shop and had us Downtown by lunchtime. Thanks, Jan! Expect a postcard from San Fran in a month or so :).

On a tip from Jess, we got hooked up with a Warm Showers host just a 10 minute walk from downtown. This place (we're currently staying there) is a trip. The proprietor of the house, Bruce Anderson is a bike tourer, hydrologist, single dad and a slew of other things I'm sure (haven't talked to him at length yet). Anyways, his house is jazz--that's how I need to describe it. Big brick building in a shaded neighborhood. Doors open, windows open. Jazz blaring out the walls. His son, Ben, is a 10 year old precocious kid who rides tall bikes with saws welded to the front them and climbs in his tree house and runs around with his dog Sirius. Their are miniature Alberto Giacometti sculptures throughout the house with pieces of minimalist and abstract art on the walls, a recording studio, full drum set and a grand piano in the living room. Bruce met us when we got there and told us the house is open and feel free to use whatever we need. Hah. We read his typed out guide. Part of what it suggested was that tap dancing on the picnic tables and loud beer drinking games should be curtailed around 10 p.m. and that you can basically stay as long as you want but after a month they'll start charging you rent. A few other guys live there as well. Caleb, who's our age, is a musician. He specializes in drums and he's damn good. We experienced him kill it last night at the Union Club with one of his bands. He is Dalila-lama chill. John, another guy who lives there, is the resident master gardener and general handy man. His passion for sustainable farming is contagious. He volunteers with local garden programs and showed Brady and I the U of M kitchen and student gardens--a lot of cool stuff is happening there. Haven't met Gil yet but apparently he's a bike mechanic and is constantly playing bicycle polo.

We have also made good friends with a couple who are touring West to East from Oregon to Virginia beach, Jake and Megan. They are celebrating their one year wedding anniversary today. Congrats to you guys! Super cool people.

Also, we need to do a shout-out for our buddy Josh Brust who has been checking in on us by phone throughout the trip. Good to hear your voice, bro! You're with us in spirit--see you soon :)

We have passed the one month marker and we figure we're over half way to the coast and have traveled close to 1600 miles. We'll have a more accurate estimate sometime and we'll also work on a map so people can see our route (thanks for the suggestion, Will!). Anyways, I have to get out of this library. Thanks for reading :)